Research by PhD student Ronnie Wang, Dr Mahsa Ghaffari, Dr Diletta Acuti and Professor Diego Vazquez-Brust looks at how second-hand luxury consumption in China can challenge established power structures and can help improve social equality.
China, with its rich history and dynamic societal structure, coupled with its power dynamics provides a fascinating lens through which to examine change.
Power distance in China is high, i.e. there is a high power distance between individuals and those in power. This creates a widening gap between lay people and elites resulting in inequality in the society. The elite often engage in unconscious consumption, being engaged with spending their wealth and acquiring materials and experiences without considering the repercussions of such behaviour. This is often seen as being problematic, especially by those who are more educated and care about the traces of their consumption and sustainability in general.
Consumption for consumptions sake
The focus by the elite on acquiring luxury items purely for the sake of consumption, rather than out of need or without considering others who can be future generations, exacerbate the inequality in society and undermine the world’s goal for having a sustainable future.
This shows the necessity of change in the realm of consumption in China, however implementing change in a deep-grained cultural setting with high power distance is quite difficult if not impossible.
In China, a society with a historically high power distance, individuals rely on conspicuous consumption to display their social status without caring about sustainability, as they perceive such behaviours as challenging and detrimental to their established power structures.
The elite, with their substantial resources and influence, often set the tone for consumption patterns, which the general population may then feel compelled to imitate, despite the environmental and social costs. This situation leads to a cycle of unconscious consumerism, where the focus is on consuming more or consuming unnecessary items rather than considering the impact of these practices.
A movement for change
Despite all the difficulties to disrupt the consumption system in China, our research conducted by PhD student Ronnie Wang and her supervisors Dr Mahsa Ghaffari, Professor Diego Vazquez-Brust and Dr Diletta Acuti shows a subtle yet powerful form of movement where consumers employ strategic and conscious consumption practices to challenge dominant structures Conscious consumerism is about making purchasing decisions that are not only good for the individual but also beneficial for society and the environment.
In our research, we found lay consumers use second-hand luxury products not only to go against the status quo where consumption is a selfish act without any consideration for future generations but also as a way of opposition to initiate change and promote conscious consumerism which, in turn can contribute to social equality in the society.
We employed semi-structured interviews to explore the motivations behind second-hand luxury consumption in China and how consumers try to un-stigmatise second-hand luxury, especially with major uncertainty and risks in the current market. In this regard, one of the interviewees in our research highlights elites' unconscious consumption:
“Rich people use a big fancy Christmas tree and fly in private jets to make some people think that is right, but it is not.”
Despite the difficulty to initiate change in a highly sedimented society like China, our research participants show their enthusiasm in becoming the agent of change.
“...I think everyone has the power to do something to change this inequality in society, buying second hand luxury seems [a practical] mean, I buy not because I am rich. I hope that we all can start to do something to change this sick phenomena [unconscious consumption].”
Overturning traditional power structures
By choosing second-hand items, consumers are opposing the norm, the idea that luxury and exclusivity must always come at the cost of social inequality and environmental harm. The preference for second-hand luxury items is not merely an economic decision where products are deemed more affordable but a deliberate attempt to overturn traditional power structures in China, trying to give more power to less resourceful individuals contributing to equality in the society. By choosing second-hand luxury items, individuals express a desire to be more socially responsible and follow the goal to end the ostentatious displays of wealth and status often associated with first-hand luxury purchases without considering the repercussion of such behaviour. This view is echoed in one of our interviewer’s quotes:
“I don’t mind people knowing that I am wearing second hand (luxury), instead I hope people are aware of this and I am wearing them for a good reason.”
While this subtle movement represents a form of resistance starting as a small scale, escalating this cause is not impossible. This type of consumption is not only a way of consuming goods, but an opportunity to initiate dialogue and negotiation in society with the hope to awaken unconscious consumers, which happens to be mainly among elites. The consumers of second-hand luxury products in our research show their determination in promoting sustainability and initiating change by ascribing more responsibility to themselves, even though they are living in a highly institutionalised setting. This is evident from one of our participants quotes:
“Buying second hand (luxury) is a way to contribute to sustainability and I know how important sustainability is but I do not consider myself as a sustainable consumer because there are so many ways I could do better.”
Fostering a new norm
In our research, we found conscious consumers, although among minorities, aim to have a broader impact in the society by being the change themselves and hoping others to join them. As more individuals embrace second-hand luxury consumption and sustainability, the narrative around wealth and status undergoes an organic transformation, influencing the societal norms which can result in a more equitable society. The anger toward unconscious consumption that triggered this movement is evident in a comment that has thousands of likes, from Redbook, a social media platform in China:
“I always travel green and do recycling all year around and still the rich people’s households produce more carbon emissions in one day than me in one year. They are the ones actually polluting our planet. Why can’t I hate them?”
The decision to embrace second-hand luxury reflects a commitment to reduce the social impact of consumerism and challenge the throwaway culture associated with fast fashion and conspicuous consumption. As they challenge traditional notions of status and wealth, these individuals contribute to a broader societal shift, fostering a new norm that values sustainability and challenges established power dynamics in a society where initiating change is difficult.
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